As I had a lot more holiday to spare than Grace, I escaped the cold and miserable November England to the somewhat less cold and hopefully tasty Italy! Starting at the top in Milan and working my way down to Sorrento.
With non-researched expectations of random fashion parades, flying models, or at least some colour - Milan seems a bit boring on the pedestrian front. Above the boxy skyline it's easy to spot the gothic spires of the iconic Duomo. The Piazza del Duomo around it is a sea of people, heavily sprinkled with persistent "street merchants" armed with string bracelets, goo splat balls and photo offers. You have to be fast to take a photo - its really annoying.
In somewhat of a last minute panic, I joined one of the expensive Last Supper tour groups, which basically just show you around the city for a few hours before going into see Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper. Apparently it could be difficult to get tickets (probably because tours like this reserved them all) and LS was most of the reason I wanted to go to Milan. Anyway, first we visit the Duomo!
The building itself is pretty special. The guide complained about the totally inconsistent design history and what seemed like Italians arguing over what it should look like. Its a pretty long project, morphing into its present form over the period between 1386 and 1812 - 1965 (thereabouts).
Of course the site is fairly ancient as well, in the crypt sits a very old and now very dwarfed Christian baptistery built in 335. There was something big and Roman before that. Anyway, it's cool just to be there.
The huge windows create some pretty awesome afternoon light inside. I'm not much of a photographer so take my word for it that it was prettier in real life!
Pretty common to see these old priest corpses in their little display cabinets. You can see his hand here (he's dead!) but on some days they lift off the mask to give him some fresh air. Kinda creepy.
My favourite statue depicting poor old Bartholomew the Apostle, skinned alive and crucified upside down. That's the popular version of his death, the other is that he was simply beheaded - but clearly that's the boring version that nobody likes! He was sculpted here without his skin in 1562.
The serpent eating the man is a thousand year old symbol of the powerful Visconti family - that is the Visconti of Milan, who seemed to own everything for a few hundred years before the renaissance. The symbol is all over the place in Milan, and is pretty cool. Among other origin stories about Gothic kings or rebirth stories, our guide liked a myth about a "loch-ness" style monster menace that would eat small children. I like that one too!
We walked around outside looking at some of the cathedrals exterior in detail. I can't really recall the details, just some outlines about the symbols of the sun, the sparrow, man and the angels. Pretty cool though!
A product of the austerity cuts in Italy at the moment, people can now "Adopt a Gargoyle", making sure they don't fall down. In return the donors name is engraved on the statue - the latest in the cathedrals constant restoration campaign against time and gravity.
Right next to the cathedral is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II - the oldest shopping mall in Italy.
Inside the old mall the ceilings were pretty amazing, although from them fell its designer, Giuseppe Mengoni, to his death before the buildings inauguration in 1877. Our guide speculated that perhaps he jumped, in stress of trying to impress the first king of the kingdom of Italy, after which the Gallery was named.
There is an old ritual here where if you can spin on your heel three times you'll be rewarded with "good luck". On the ground is a bull, part of the coat of arms for the Italian city of Turin. Apparently you're supposed to spin with your heel on the bulls genitals :/
The tour started naturally blending into talks about Leonardo, who lived in the city for about 20 years or so.
We walked to the Sforza Castle - Sforza being another powerful family who moved into Milan for about a century or so after the Visconti family tree ended. The castle was built around the 14th century, and aesthetically feels very bland and boring! But this being the Sforza castle, Leonardo spent a lot of time here, you know, mingling with the dukes and doing all sorts of "arty, designy" things.
To be very brief, Amidst a strange and turbulent history of war, assassinations, art and music, Ludovico Sforza, then Duke of Milan, commissioned Leonardo to create the Last Supper. We walked about for a while before going to the site, which was a church a few blocks away.
On another note, children are tasty!
On the way, we find some street signs like this! The guide explains that it's fairly common to see these around Milan.
Finally we come to the Santa Maria delle Grazie, the church home to the last supper painting. The painting is next to the burial place of the commissioners father, Francesco Sforza.
Of course you can't take your own photos of the last supper, but take my word for it that it does indeed look like this. Its quite big, you get 15 minutes with 24 other people to look at it before being forced out by the rather pushy staff. Despite that, its pretty nice to just be there and experience it.
